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2021-08-01

Devils Tower: America's Silent Stone Giant

Drive across the rolling grasslands of northeastern Wyoming, and, at some point, you'll catch sight of it before you're ready — a grey column rising out of nowhere, standing apart from every hill and ridge around it. That's Devils Tower. Pictures never quite capture it — up close, it feels less like part of the scenery and more like something that showed up and refused to leave

Devils Tower rising above pine forest in Wyoming
The tower seen from the surrounding pine forest
In 1906, President Theodore Roosevelt designated it as the first site in the country to receive the title of "National Monument." That alone tells you something about how long people have been captivated by this place. But the fascination didn't start with Roosevelt, and it certainly didn't end with him either.

A Landmark Carved by Time

The tower rises roughly 1,267 feet above the Belle Fourche River, while the rock face itself rises about 867 feet (264 metres) from base to summit. What you're looking at isn't a mountain in the usual sense — it's the exposed core of something that was once buried. Millions of years of wind, rain, and river erosion stripped away the softer sedimentary rock that once surrounded it, leaving only the harder igneous rock standing behind. In a way, the tower didn't grow taller over time. Everything around it just wore away.

Up close, the surface is covered in long vertical columns, most of them six-sided, running from the base almost to the top like the bristles of some enormous stone brush. Geologists call the rock phonolite porphyry, formed when magma cooled slowly underground rather than erupting at the surface. Most researchers now agree it was never part of a volcano at all — instead, molten rock pushed up between layers of older sediment and hardened there, formed deep underground millions of years ago and was eventually exposed by erosion.

The Legends Behind the Grooves

Long before geologists named any of this, Native peoples of the northern plains had their own explanations, passed down for generations. Several tribes, including those who call the formation Bear Lodge, tell stories that trace those deep vertical grooves back to a giant bear.

The Bear and the Maidens

One widely told version describes a massive bear chasing a group of young girls. As they fled, the ground beneath them rose skyward, lifting them out of reach. The bear, furious, clawed at the rising rock, leaving the long scratch marks that scar its sides to this day. Different nations tell it differently — some include wolves in the story, others describe different numbers of girls or different endings — but the bear and the claw marks appear again and again. To this day, Bear Lodge remains a place of active spiritual significance, not a relic of the past.

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Close-up of the vertical rock columns on Devils Tower
The distinctive hexagonal columns running up the tower's face
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Sacred Ground, Popular Trail

That's part of what makes Devils Tower unusual as a National Monument: it's simultaneously a place of prayer and a playground for rock climbers. June is significant on both counts — it's an important month in Plains religious tradition, and it's also peak climbing season, which has occasionally put two very different uses of the same rock face into conflict.

A Balancing Act in June

Since 1995, the National Park Service has asked climbers to voluntarily hold off during June out of respect for ceremonies taking place at the base. It isn't a rule, and plenty of climbers still go up that month. Others choose not to, treating the request less as a restriction and more as a courtesy. Compliance hovers somewhere in between full observance and business as usual — an ongoing, unresolved compromise rather than a settled agreement.

How the Tower Actually Formed

Even without the legends, the geology alone is worth the visit. The base spans close to 1,000 feet across, and the columns narrow slightly as they rise, giving the tower its faintly tapered, almost architectural silhouette. It's regularly ranked among the toughest climbing routes in the Black Hills region, which stretches well beyond Wyoming's borders into South Dakota.


Tall columns of Devils Tower National Monument
Devils Tower, Wyoming
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Devils Tower National Monument
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How tall is Devils Tower?
Devils Tower rises 386m high above the Belle Fourche River, and the base is 265m from the summit.
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What is Devils Tower?
The Tower is a solitary, stump-shaped granite formation that looms 1,267 feet above the tree-lined Belle Fourche River Valley. 

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Devils Tower, Wyoming — Google Map

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Wyoming Devils Tower
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Visiting Devils Tower Today

For those who'd rather stay on the ground, the park offers gentler ways to take it in. The Tower Trail loops 1.25 miles around the base, close enough to feel the scale of the columns overhead, while the longer Red Beds Trail winds three miles through the surrounding pine forest and grassland, past prairie dog colonies and, if you're lucky, a deer or two. Either way, you leave with the same impression: the monument is a place that has been drawing people's eyes upward for a very long time and shows no sign of stopping.


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